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When compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect familiar award-winning venues. But, nestled prominently among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The honour has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their small shop earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.